Versace / Fall / 2016 / Modeling Privileged / La vogue excellent
Versace is a house loaded with history – the mere mention of the name conjures up notions of luxury, glamour and decadence.
This is largely thanks to its creative director Donatella – not only a designer, but a campaign star (check her out for Givenchy AW15)
and a celebrity in her own right – who has continued the legacy of her late brother Gianni since his death in 1997.
Jean Paul Gaultier
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Today was Jean Paul Gaultier's first time on the runway since shuttering his prêt-à-porter business with a shower of gold confetti last September. It was a new beginning of sorts, and to celebrate he chose weddings as his theme. Most couture shows have a single betrothed; JPG had a couple dozen of them. He dubbed the collection 61 Façons de Se Dire Oui, or 61 Ways to Say Yes. The bride wore a lace bomber and tulle ball skirt, the bride wore shorts, and the bride wore blue jeans. Naomi Campbell closed the show wrapped in cellophane and live orchids and not much else; she was a bridal bouquet.
In the detailed show notes, each look got a clever name of its own. To Bi or Not to Bi, a little black number tailored like a man's suit on one side and draped like a dress on the other, was classic Gaultier. There were first-rate examples of his masculine-feminine hybrids from beginning to end, and they were the strongest elements of a show that also included python—both the real thing and an intricate burnished paillette facsimile—as well as a passage of evening numbers that exposed the satin boning of corsets and crinoline cages.
The crowd was the rowdiest of couture week—this or any other. They cheered for even the silliest of looks—Lindsey Wixson's tutu overalls with beekeeper's hat takes that prize—and tossed the anemones left on each seat at Gaultier's favorite models from times gone by as they came down the elevated runway in their alterna-bride attire. Clothing-wise, we've seen much of this before, but Gaultier's shows are one of the last places in fashion where we're encouraged to have fun. For the time being, that's enough to keep everyone coming back.
PARIS, JANUARY 28, 2015
by NICOLE PHELPS
Alexander Mc Queen
Autumn / Winter / Runaway Show 2015
This morning Alexander McQueen announced it would be moving its runway show from Paris to London exclusively for the Fall 2016 season this February.
Showing in London will be a homecoming for the house, which participated in LFW from its inception in the ’90s until 2001, when it moved to Paris Fashion Week shortly after it joined the Gucci Group. Even in its Parisian setting, British heritage played an integral role in its collections, most recently inspiring Sarah Burton to incorporate patterns designed by 17th-century silk weavers of Spitalfields into her sweeping gowns.
A spokesperson for the brand told British Vogue of the location change: “We wanted to look at doing something different for the season.” A little seasonal setting swap may very well become the norm—this season alone, Givenchy traded Paris for New York Fashion Week, while The Row did just the opposite.
The addition of the Alexander McQueen show is just the latest in changes to London Fashion Week. Earlier this week, Jonathan Saunders shuttered his label, while yesterday Thomas Tait announced he would be trading his LFW runway for one-on-one press appointments in Paris. Hunter boots, which staged a runway last season, will also no return for Fall 2016, though both Mulberry and Charlotte Olympia are joining the calendar with runway presentations.
Spring 2019 / Fashion Collection / Tailored Mode
Alexander McQueen, led under the direction of Sarah Burton since McQueen's passing, has always pushed the envelope for women's fashion. And now, the brand is ready to align its menswear collection on that same creative front.
Over the weekend, the fashion house debuted a menswear show at Paris Men's Fashion Week for the first time. The Spring 2018 collection featured red leather, silk fringe, florals and scalloped details. Proving to be the most boundary-breaking, however, was a coat that Burton made from an actual rug. Yes, a rug.
For the design, Burton turned the rug from McQueen's Spring 2017 women's runway inside-out for a distressed, colorful men's evening coat. The end result was a frayed but polished outerwear piece that made for the ultimate high-fashion DIY.
Gucci / Fall Winter 2018 /2019 / Exclusive / Mode Collection
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Gucci's latest crystal-draped visions of librarian chic landed in Italy on Wednesday, kicking off Milan Fashion Week with the design house's spring/summer 2018 show.
Creative director Alessandro Michele delivered another glittering, maximalist collection, mixing retro '70s silhouettes and Elton John references with ancient inspirations, modeling the runway after the Tiber river and scattering "classical statues from different periods and cultures" around the venue. The show unfolded in front of an audience of Gucci's favorite celebrity guests, including muses like Dakota Johnson, A$AP Rocky, and Petra Collins.
Fall Winter 2019 /2020 / Milan
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Versace Fall-Winter 2018-19. “The Clans of Versace” — Donatella Versace’s fall collection was, according to the opening quote of her show notes, an ode to women who “know that today nothing is acquired through birth, but rather earned through what they achieve.Versace’s clanswomen have calmer tendencies as well. A trio of slinky black dresses worn with headscarves percolated steam beneath the surface, while a pair of impeccable camel coats provided savvy, high-chic respite from so much optic verve.Somehow that included a play on classics—a slick trenchcoat, a schoolgirl shirt collar, beige tailoring, super-platformed brogues. Then there was a riff on trad-punk tartans, all chopped-about, with multilevel kilts topped off with the odd beret. Silhouette-wise, what evolved were draped tulip-shaped miniskirts and bubbles, waists cinched in with broad leather Versace-logo buckle belts, and wide, wide shoulders. Where there were corsets, there were T-shirts crammed beneath them, DIY-club-style.