Versace / Fall / 2016 / Modeling Privileged / La vogue excellent
Versace is a house loaded with history – the mere mention of the name conjures up notions of luxury, glamour and decadence.
This is largely thanks to its creative director Donatella – not only a designer, but a campaign star (check her out for Givenchy AW15)
and a celebrity in her own right – who has continued the legacy of her late brother Gianni since his death in 1997.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Texts belonging not to video above /
Today was Jean Paul Gaultier's first time on the runway since shuttering his prêt-à-porter business with a shower of gold confetti last September. It was a new beginning of sorts, and to celebrate he chose weddings as his theme. Most couture shows have a single betrothed; JPG had a couple dozen of them. He dubbed the collection 61 Façons de Se Dire Oui, or 61 Ways to Say Yes. The bride wore a lace bomber and tulle ball skirt, the bride wore shorts, and the bride wore blue jeans. Naomi Campbell closed the show wrapped in cellophane and live orchids and not much else; she was a bridal bouquet.
In the detailed show notes, each look got a clever name of its own. To Bi or Not to Bi, a little black number tailored like a man's suit on one side and draped like a dress on the other, was classic Gaultier. There were first-rate examples of his masculine-feminine hybrids from beginning to end, and they were the strongest elements of a show that also included python—both the real thing and an intricate burnished paillette facsimile—as well as a passage of evening numbers that exposed the satin boning of corsets and crinoline cages.
The crowd was the rowdiest of couture week—this or any other. They cheered for even the silliest of looks—Lindsey Wixson's tutu overalls with beekeeper's hat takes that prize—and tossed the anemones left on each seat at Gaultier's favorite models from times gone by as they came down the elevated runway in their alterna-bride attire. Clothing-wise, we've seen much of this before, but Gaultier's shows are one of the last places in fashion where we're encouraged to have fun. For the time being, that's enough to keep everyone coming back.
PARIS, JANUARY 28, 2015
by NICOLE PHELPS
Alexander Mc Queen
Autumn / Winter / Runaway Show 2015
This morning Alexander McQueen announced it would be moving its runway show from Paris to London exclusively for the Fall 2016 season this February.
Showing in London will be a homecoming for the house, which participated in LFW from its inception in the ’90s until 2001, when it moved to Paris Fashion Week shortly after it joined the Gucci Group. Even in its Parisian setting, British heritage played an integral role in its collections, most recently inspiring Sarah Burton to incorporate patterns designed by 17th-century silk weavers of Spitalfields into her sweeping gowns.
A spokesperson for the brand told British Vogue of the location change: “We wanted to look at doing something different for the season.” A little seasonal setting swap may very well become the norm—this season alone, Givenchy traded Paris for New York Fashion Week, while The Row did just the opposite.
The addition of the Alexander McQueen show is just the latest in changes to London Fashion Week. Earlier this week, Jonathan Saunders shuttered his label, while yesterday Thomas Tait announced he would be trading his LFW runway for one-on-one press appointments in Paris. Hunter boots, which staged a runway last season, will also no return for Fall 2016, though both Mulberry and Charlotte Olympia are joining the calendar with runway presentations.